FLORIDA'S CEDAR KEYS: A HISTORY LOVER'S DELIGHT
By Ann Burch
The first week in May
heralded the last week of classes and final exams and
the day after I headed north on Highway 19 for a desperate
need of getting
away from it all and rest and relaxation. I found it in this
quiet,
out-of-the-way, beautiful spot named Cedar Key. A must for
anyone who loves
Florida's history and Nature Coast, Cedar Key is a serene,
friendly place
with breathtaking views and some of the best food in Florida.
My first stop after
the 20-plus mile trek on Highway 24 from Highway 19 was
Pirates Cove and my cabin. A pet-friendly place (there is a
pet deposit),
resident cats greet guests with a hearty "meow, matey," and
have been known
to assist as guides in exploring this bayside wonder. I was
lucky. I
called at just the right time and got the best view in the
place - complete
with a screened porch overlooking the bay. After introducing
Bellamy Starr
and Taco to the cabin first, I unloaded the truck and headed
for the porch
to begin some serious sit-down time, reveling in the spectacular
view, the
gentle breeze, and a favorite book and jigsaw puzzle. Cedar
Key now boasts
excursions by boat for nature and Gulf lovers in general. Lady
Pirate Boat
Tours include scenic island tours, drop-offs for picnics and
special
charters. Others are available as well, located within the
dock area of
Cedar Key.
Somewhat familiar with
the place, I had no trouble deciding where to have
dinner that first evening. I have yet to have a bad meal in
Cedar Key, and
have visited almost all the restaurants there through the years.
Down on
the docks at the Red Luck Café was a definite choice.
The food is
excellent, as is the wait staff. If you decide to check the
Red Luck Café out, be very hungry when you do. And, the Red Luck Café has
a colorful
history all its own. The story of the smuggler in the early
1800's and his
true love makes for fascinating reading, and diners should
definitely pick
up a copy of this story as a memento. My mom came down for
the weekend and
Saturday evening was an excellent choice for the Seabreeze
for dinner.
Fantastic view and food.
Sunday morning, we opted for a more downhome style
breakfast and stopped in Annie's Cafe, right on Highway 24
before entering
the downtown area. The creaking of their screen door as you
entered brought
a flood of Old Florida memories back to me, and I just enjoyed
kicking back
and enjoying the atmosphere. The food and service did not
disappoint us,
either. Great place for breakfast and lunch.
Several legends float
around Cedar Key, including one of The Headless
Horseman of Seahorse Key", a perfect story for Halloween,
complete with La
Fitte, the pirate, a treasure fortune on the island, and, of
course, a
moonlight night. Pirates Cove boasts their own pirate story,
entitled Old
Pete of Pirates' Cove", written by Ruth Stovall of Port
Charlotte, Florida,
a visitor to the Cove in 2001. This tale Includes the story
of lost love. Copies are available at Pirates Cove.
Downtown Cedar Key is
a definite must for a walking tour of Old Florida at
its best. The local Historical Society operates a museum
right on the
corner of Highway 24 and their main street and is a must
to visit. The
museum is home to an abundance of exhibits, pictures and
displays, some
dating back to 1775. You can enjoy Cedar Key history on the
half shell
while visiting their museum.
A close-up
view of the old Thomas Guest House is a must. You can't miss
this one,
located Gulf side near the restaurants. The Historical Society
of Cedar
Key offers memberships to all its visitors, and you do not
have to be a
resident to become a member. The beautiful historic Andrews
House ballroom
is available for special events, meetings, workshops, and
conferences. Mom
and I took a tour Sunday afternoon of the Cedar Key Museum
State Park and
history lovers will find this park invaluable in learning
more about the
area's rich history. The St. Clair Whitman house is located
on the grounds
of the park and has been restored. The house belonged to
a major benefactor
to Cedar Key's history and museum and was a successful businessman
in the
community. The grounds are landscaped with native sand pine,
slash pine,
red cedar, live oak, sabal palm, saw palmetto, yaupon and
counties.
The area holds a vital
place in Florida's history. Cedar Key, settled in
the early 1804's, it was flourishing by 1861, with a railroad
system
traveling as far away as Fernandina. There were blockade
runners during the
War Between the States, salt was locally made for the troops,
and it was
eventually attacked by the Federal force by sea and captured.
The major
industries after the War included cedar (pencil manufacturing),
pine and
cypress, with fishing becoming a major industry later.
The area hosts a
number of clam farms, helping to revitalize the community's
fishing industry
in a new way.
All visitors to the
area should pick up The Cedar Key Guide," and
the local
newspaper, the Cedar Key Beacon. Both make for interesting
reading and
additional information, and the Guide includes valuable coupons.
Be sure
and drop by the Cedar Key Chamber of Commerce as well to say, "hi," and
obtain even more information.
Cedar Key is located
in Levy County on Highway 24, off Highway 19 North,
about 40-50 miles north of Crystal River. Highway 24 is accessible
at Otter
Creek.
